Bali & Beyond

 

At the end of August, with a group of 15 friends from South Africa, I flew to Bali via Singapore, and then spent two nights at the gorgeous Komaneka Hotel at Bisma in Ubud – far away from the madding tourist crowds in Bali town, amidst graceful coconut groves and picturesque rice paddies. Surrounded by tinkling fountains, cool stone terraces, artwork and local carvings, daughter Tiffany and I stayed in the most delightful and spacious suite overlooking the palms and lush vegetation – I can honestly say that it was one of the best hotels I have ever stayed at anywhere in the world.

Then off for a week on the 2-masted blue-sailed schooner, the Ombak Putih, built in a centuries-old tradition by local craftsmen with 12 comfortable ensuite cabins. This beautiful boat allows you to relive those far off times when all Indonesian waters  were ruled by the Buginese.

We relished our long lazy days, sitting on deck piņa coladas in hand, watching active volcanoes drift by on the horizon, or snorkelling amongst pristine reefs off sandy beaches on uninhabited desert islands, swimming under waterfalls or in a salty fabled crater lake, swaying gently at night under a star-studded sky, or visiting local villages.

A highlight was – had to be – finding the legendary Komodo dragons.

Nothing prepares you for the sight of these great carnivorous creatures of which there are fewer than 2 000 left in the wild. Incredibly ugly, looking like prehistoric creatures from a Steven Spielberg movie, yellow double-forked tongues flickering as they search for prey, these dragons are heart-stopping sights.

On two consecutive days, we went ashore by the Omnak Putih’s small tenders, to the World Heritage Sites of Rinca and Komodo Island. Nothing prepares you for the sight of these great carnivorous creatures of which there are fewer than 2 000 left in the wild. Incredibly ugly, looking like prehistoric creatures from a Steven Spielberg movie, yellow double-forked tongues flickering as they search for prey, these dragons are heart-stopping sights.
The Turkington Luck struck again because we found two dragons – one massive one, one smaller – on a fresh deer kill.

It’s such an uncommon sighting that even our guides were taking photographs. All in all, we saw over 10 of the creatures in their natural habitat in the wild – an unforgettable experience.
Bali and its glitzy resorts are a bit like Mauritius on steroids, as we found out when we disembarked and spent our last two nights at Nusa Dua Beach Resort. But the local people are so gentle, courteous and caring, that you can forgive some of the bling.
As for the sea trip – I’d do it over and over again.

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